Hair Extensions and hair extension training.
Hair-extention-training.co.uk 8 Mealhouse Brow Stockport Cheshire Tel 0161 429 8924
www.shop4hair.co.uk
Table of contents 1. Equipment list 2. Health and safety 3. Equipment maintenance 4. Client consultation 5. Choosing and ordering and storing hair 6. Client maintenance/aftercare 7. Application 8. Cutting and styling of the extensions 9. Removal Here At Images we have tried and tested all products used. Hair X is a brand name you have purchased, included in the kit are consultation forms and poster all with the brand name Hair X on them, also after you have trained you receive a certificate stating that you have been trained to use the hair X system. This package you purchase gives you after training support if needed to help combat problems, however if you use any other adhesive not purchased from Images (the produces of Hair X) Your product support will cease and you will be asked to return all stationary which has the Hair X logo on. Regarding human hair, we strongly advise that you purchase hair from Images only because after rigorous testing it has proved to be reliable in conjunction with our adhesive any other brand that states
Euro weft or Euro weave is not European hair
and will result in unhappy clients due to excess shedding. You will also find that our
European hair
is very competitively priced so if you purchase both hair and
adhesive
from Images you will receive the best there is in hair extensions and product support. Our support we give to you is very limited if you do not buy Images products. Equipment list Your applicator: Very important firstly insert a glue stick into the applicator BEFORE switching it on. The applicators do drip this is normal, however they are not like water pistols. The process of pulling the trigger feeds the adhesive into the heating chamber it then melts it and releases adhesive from the nozzle. This process can take several seconds so be patient and do not keep pulling the trigger you will only waste your adhesive. Only feed 1 millimeter at a time when needed. The correct method: Put a stick of adhesive into applicator push all the way in as when new they are empty. Then switch on. Allow 10 minutes to reach temperature, wait for it to drip, it is ready for use. When it is necessary for more adhesive squeeze the trigger to feed the adhesive through only 1-millimeter release trigger immediately and wait for it to drip. Make sure a fresh stick is inserted when the other has passed through the trigger mechanism. You should be using around 1-2 sticks for a full head. At first you will use more until you are more proficient. Trouble shooting your applicator CLOGS; If not using the applicator for more than 10 minutes switch it off. If it does clog you have left it standing and the adhesive has gone thick due to overheating. To clear this with the applicator hot point it to the bowl whilst pulling the trigger put a little pressure on the stick with the palm of your hand the adhesive should then flow. It is important that the applicator trigger is not pulled before temperature is reached. If so you can cause melt back and burns to your hand. The burn we will cover in the health and safety. Melt back is caused by the melted adhesive being forced backward when the adhesive at the trigger is not melted and the hot adhesive will block the passage way, if this happens switch off and allow to cool. Scrape any residue away take care not to cut the seals on the applicator. If your applicator bubbles and steam comes out: This is normal due to the adhesive stick having absorbed moisture from the atmosphere. This does not affect the bonding but can increase the flow from your applicator. Nothing can be done to store your sticks once they have passed through the applicator but if you need to use another stick just to push the other through, if this stick is not required when finished store away in an airtight container. If you use a second stick and it is still running switch off for 10 minute to cool then switch on again. Never pull a stick out once it has passed through the heater section Health and safety Hot melt adhesive can cause serious burns always have a bowl of cold water nearby. If you do burn yourself do not pick it off place hand immediately into bowl of water. Then run your hand under the cold tap Always point the applicator into the dish never at the client and never take the applicator to the client’s head. Never leave the applicator unattended people find the adhesive fascinating and are inclined to touch ITS VERY HOT so switch off and allow to cool somewhere safe. Always use the silicone pad to bond the adhesive never your fingers. Never allow your clients to smoke when removing the extensions, the fluid used is highly flammable. Always use rubber gloves when using the removal fluid as it does affect false nails and with prolonged usage risks of allergic reactions have been known. Always gown up your clients properly as the removal fluid makes the adhesive go to dust so protect client’s clothes and skin Ensure adequate ventilation when using the removal solvent Always use a dripper bottle never from the container you buy it in. (A neutraliser bottle is ideal) Do not use the removal solvent to clean the applicator it will damage the casing. Do not dismantle the applicator your self if you have any problems return to us for
maintenance
It is not necessary to remove build up of adhesive on the nozzle but if you wish to do so do it while it is warm, wipe it with thick paper do this very carefully so as not to burn your fingers. Client consultation You can charge for this as it can take up to half an hour, the decision is yours. During the consultation you will discuss • What the clients expects from the extensions • If it is achievable • The clients ability to care for them • Maintenance visits The consultation is the most important aspect of applying extensions, get this wrong and you pay the price. You fill in the form together and both sign it one copy for them one for you. Make sure you fill every aspect of the form. If the client is not prepared to attend for maintenance visits then do not continue Find out if the client wants volume, length, hi-lights, and lowlights. Explain the extensions require a lot of work to look after; patience is a must when styling them. Do not focus on the benefits of
extensions
you must also tell them the negative side to them, such as, Uncomfortable at first Take longer to wash and style Require quality products to care for them • Require regular salon visits • Require removal after 3 months • They may also need to have their hair cut before the extensions are applied i.e. to remove a weight line. • Will not be able to have hair highlighted when extensions are in. Advise the client that if a greasy scalp they may experience shedding more than normal. Check the hair for condition and strength any breakages refuse to do it. You must educate the client, as extensions are not an easy option. The client has to go through a learning curve especially if someone has short hair and wants 5 – 6 inches adding, they may never have had long hair and thus has never had to care for long hair. They have to learn the process as you are giving them hair that would otherwise have taken years to grow in 3 – 6 hours. If they struggle to cope who are they going to complain to! You of course. They will put the blame on anybody other than themselves for doing the wrong aftercare. If you have given them the full details then, you have no worries you cannot be responsible for them not listening to. Always beware of clients that want it done yesterday, those that choose this service on a whim tend to want them out on a whim at your cost. If they struggle and you did not inform them of the aftercare them you will find yourself refunding the monies and you salon reputation will be at stake. Explain to them you need a consultation (that they could possible fail) you need to order the hair, they need to leave a deposit (a must for you), they need to call in when the hair has arrived to check the colour, if colour and length is right then and only then secure the booking. Never take a client on trust when ordering the hair they might not show up and it’s your money that you have parted with for the cost of the hair. Always always take a deposit. Is the client having the extensions for a particular reason are they going on holiday or getting married, always find this out. As a client going out of the country a week after they have had them done are at risk for • They are not able to come to the salon if they have a problem. • It is early days and they have not learnt how to look after them correctly. • All the swimming and sunbathing is not ideal for the extensions • Most people struggle with their own hair on holiday without all that extra length Ask them do they struggle with their hair now if so they certainly will with extensions as they are twice the work, also if they have not got the time to cope with short hair how can they spare the time for long hair, so lifestyle is important here! Weddings Long hair is what most brides’ dream of for their wedding. Be cautious! Can you give her what she wants? If so apply them 3 weeks before the wedding and have a practice run on styling before the big day. This gives her time to get used to them. Bear in mind the
honeymoon
as well! Avoid the bride that comes in 3 days before the wedding wanting extensions simply say no it’s not worth it. Protective headgear Does your client wear anything like this on a regular basis if so consider that the bonds will be flattened and feel uncomfortable and the possibility of breakage as the extension is put under stress so the natural hair would also be stressed. If you do have any doubt at all with the client do not go ahead with the booking. After the forms have been filled in and you have decided that extensions are not for this client then just thank them for coming but you will not be able to apply extensions in this case. Client maintenance and aftercare Return visits Establish a programme for each client Recommend that they have the first wash done in the salon. Perhaps a visit the following week to see how they are coping. After this 5 weekly visits. The maintenance Brush the hair through to remove all tangles. Section the hair and examine all extensions separate them from their
neighbours
. If any bonds are softening of failing remove and replace. Is there any sign of breakage if so remove any re-apply if hair is okay. If this is a problem go over the aftercare with your client she may be being too rough with them. Remove any extensions that are not supported correctly. Reapply any extensions that the client may have brought with her. If bad matting has occurred again go over the aftercare with her. Top-level maintenance which can allow your clients to wear extensions indefinitely the maintenance should be as follows: With the clients hair freshly washed remove the first two top rows, wash to remove all adhesive residue and dry, replace the extensions using the same hair or new, bearing in mind if you use the old hair you have to cut off the old bond so you will lose some length. Once all two rows are replaced style as required. The second visit should be around 6-8 weeks, repeat above doing row 3 and 4, each visit there after rows 4 downwards. So the entire head is renewed every few months. Home shampoo and styling for the client • Brush to remove all tangles while supporting the hair. • Dilute the shampoo in a cup before applying. • Glide hands down the wet hair with shampoo in palm. • Do not rub just stroke the suds down. • Rinse repeat if needed. • Condition the ends only • Pat dry with towel do not rub. • Comb through with fingers or wide tooth comb • Separate each extension • Style as required, diffuse, dry naturally, if drying straight dry off first with hairdryer till nearly dry and then ideally use an air style, with these you can support the hair while blowing. Deep wave hair Never brush this hair always comb with fingers or wide toothcomb, it is like a perm if you brush it, it will frizz. Different types of hair European is by far the best quality, looks, feels natural and lasts longer as this can be reused. Asian hair This hair starts off generally dark and straight. To process it goes through stripping, bleached then
dyed
and permed for the wave. This process does affect the quality although it looks fine at first this coating tends to wash away and looks very coarse. Because there is no cuticle left on this hair it will not respond to treatments only regular spritzing with a conditioner spray will help keep its bounce. Do not recommend deep conditioning treatments for this hair to your clients it will wreck it!!! Asian hair just requires a mild shampoo a quality leave in conditioner spritzes in-between this is all. Sun care and swimming Plait the hair and tie up on top whilst sunbathing do not lie on the hair, as it will just knot up. Condition well. Wear a hat. Swimming: Tie hair up well and rinse after detangling the extensions. Ordering stock Images require that all payment accompanies orders After completion of consultation form you will know the type of hair to order, the length, the quantity, the colour, A guide to ordering hair: You will need to allow • 75 – 100 grms for 10 –12 “ • 125 for 14 – 16” • 150 grms for 16 –18” • 175 – 200 grms for 20” Please consider the thickness of the client’s hair and that it is always better to over order for top ups. See separate chart for prices. You may need more than 1 colour of hair. Match the shades and tones of the client’s hair from the shade chart provided Sometimes up to 4 colours is needed. If working with 12’’ and the client has 3 colours going through say 24,8,613 but she is mainly colour 8 you may need 50grms of colour 8 25 of col 24 and 25 of col 613 this means you will have to order more hair than is recommended due to the fact the client has more colour going through. Please bear this in mind when ordering hair, as you will have to charge the client more, as it will cost you more to buy hair. You can then blend the hair as it is attached to the head. Apply 3-4 extensions with the blend you think is right, drop your section down to check the blend of colours if correct carry on, if not adjust accordingly. Please bare in mind also the
hair
prices are all PLUS VAT. Do not rely on next day delivery for you appointment. Order the hair check it, and then book the appointment. We will not be responsible for a next day delivery not arriving in time!!! All hair that you want to return will be exchanged or credit note given. WE DO NOT GIVE REFUNDS. All orders are by telephone with credit/debit card given at time of ordering. PLEASE PLEASE make sure you have money on your card before ordering. We spend the best part of our day calling client backs to tell them their card has declined. If this happens to you and we call you and you are not in we cannot send the order out. So you will miss next day delivery. Any orders placed and cards declined are put the bottom of the pile and dealt with later in the day. SO PLEASE DO NOT SHOUT AT US IF YOU DO NOT GET YOUR ORDER THE NEXT DAY. Storing the hair We recommended you have a filing system to keep all records, the consultation form, the hair sample, maintenance records and any hair left over. Always tie the hair the same as it arrived at the roots. Never put hair in up side down. All hair is washed and checked for hair direction before it leaves Images; if you have hair upside down on the client’s head you have put it in upside down. Bonding adhesive Always ensure you have plenty of adhesive in stock before you order the hair. You will use approx. 3-4 sticks when inexperienced leading to 1-2 when you have done a few heads. If you run out part way through we cannot help you so always make sure you have enough to do the job. Storing the adhesive Store all sticks in the bag in an airtight container an empty powder bleach container is ideal. If you need to push a stick through just to get the other out when nearly finished make sure it goes back in the container. Preparing the clients to apply the extensions. Wash the hair in a good clarifying shampoo to remove product build up and grease Some clients have very greasy hair these will experience a lot of shedding due to the grease. When the hair is dried if a client is subject to a greasy scalp wipe the area over first with the removal solvent wait for it to dry then apply as shown. Application Most of this is covered on the video/day but here are a few tips. Clarify the hair first; greasy hair will not bond right. Make sure that every hair is coated in the adhesive to avoid “ shoelace” bonds. Avoid very small bonds, if using these say for fringes advise the client that the smaller the bond the less resilient they are. Make sure the receiving section is the same as the extension, you do not want to put the clients hair under unnecessary strain by having a large bond and extensions being supported by a fine section from the scalp. Do not get root lift on the section this will be uncomfortable for the client and puts the receiving section under strain and could result in pulling it out from the scalp, So ensure an evenly supported extension that lies flat. Do not pull on the receiving section when applying as this causes the hair to tighten up and not fan out so the adhesive will not pass through all the hairs. See section on problems and how to deal with them. All applications on the day of
training
are based on FULL HEADS. If you want half heads apply 2.5 rows and place them wear you think is best for E.g. length, as low as possible with 2 rows and scatter work higher for blending. Thickness, 1st row in the usual place for full head miss a row then apply 2nd row miss a row then apply scatter where needed. Work out the amounts of hair needed from the list on page 8 using your price list Remember you may need more than 1 colour. Highlights you scatter at random everywhere avoiding the top and hairline. Usually the rule of thumb is 25 grms does 1 row to 1.5 rows. Washing extensions in the salon Always wash hair longer than 14” forwards this will prevent double backing in the sink. Separate each extension from its neighbour. If a client experiences an itching scalp it will be due to not rinsing properly.
Cutting
and styling Most clients want extensions for length but sometimes you have to cut there hair before they go in. i.e. if they have a bob you will need to remove that weight line. So the client may have to have her own hair cut shorter before the extensions go in!!! Cutting the extensions When cutting the length of the extensions cut as normal and then chip into the tips to take the blunt edge off. To create layers you can razor from the clients own hair downward do not razor too heavily as you will lose the thickness at the bottom. You can also layer with scissors but not like a normal layer cut as extensions when cut like this tend to look chunky. You will be shown how to do this on the day of your training. Setting up Your hair is supplied tied the correct way make sure you place it in the draw mat with the roots pointing to you. AND KNOW WHICH WAY YOUR DRAW MAT IS WHEN YOU ARE WORKING. Some of you may not have a permanent position for hair extensions in your salon so please bear in mind if you place the hair in the draw mat in the staff room and you carry the draw mat to the client MAKE SURE YOU NOW WHICH IS ROOTS! Place the hair on the bottom mat roots towards you; do not put it all in at once. Start with one bundle and cut the ties once you have placed on the mat. When working with 16” or more place the hair half way through the mat so you do not have as much to pull through (it will not knot as much). Place the top mat on and press down. Switch on applicator allowing 10 minutes to heat up. Have all your tools ready for you i.e. clips and scissors, not forgetting some cold water just I case you do burn yourself!! Return visits Establish a program for each client. Offer to do the first wash in salon so you can go through it with the client. Ask them to contact you a week later to let you know how they are going on. After this monthly visits. After 3-4 months remove and re-apply (hopefully). The monthly visit (if not top level maintenance) Brush the hair and expose the
hair extensions
. Check each extension, if not supported remove and re-apply. If any bonds are softening remove and re-apply. Re- apply any failed bonds that the client may have brought with them. Make sure the hair is clean and free from grease before applying the extensions. Home care As you will be spending some hours with your client you can now go over what was discussed on the consultation reminding them of how to care for them at home. Brushing whilst supporting the extensions. Not rubbing or massaging the extensions whilst washing. Not rubbing with the towel. Rinse thoroughly. Not combing through with narrow comb. Separate each extension from the one next to it. Removal If re-applying the extensions do not apply conditioner. If full removal is required remove all tangles and wash. Section hair to expose rows Wearing gloves place a cotton wool pad beneath the extension and apply 2-3 drops of solvent. Wilts still wet crack and squeeze bond, hold the extension end and pull to remove. Place hair root to point and separate the different lengths. Wipe the
hair
with solvent cotton wool and comb out any remaining residue with fine toothcomb. When all removed brush through with soft brush. Wash hair and remove all tracers of residue. Style as required. Problems and how to deal with them Obviously if you do the consultation and application correct you will reduce the amount of problems. Extensions require regular contact with the client and they will inevitability mention a few problems to you, mostly will be the fact that they are applying the wrong aftercare. The main one I have experienced is the fact that the extensions are uncomfortable and cause an itchy scalp. You have to remember that this point is covered in the consultation so the clients should know what to expect, your response to this is to tell them this is quite normal and it will settle (as usually they complain about this in the first 2 weeks). If excessive itching then they are not rinsing the shampoo out properly. Rarely this problem arises and if it does not go away there is nothing you can do about this, this maybe this is the way the clients scalp reacts to extensions its not your fault. Advice here is they may wish to have them removed or recommend a scalp tonic to ease the itchiness and calm it down. Again always mention this in your consultation as if you did not the client may insist a refund on bad advice. When dealing with a client’s problem let them tell you everything before you speak. Do not say “did you do this” ” did you do that” as they will always say, “yes I did” Let them tell you or better still show you how they handle it at home. You can get to the problem this way and correct it now as if you admit anything to the client and end up re- doing the extensions the same problem will arise as it is obviously an after care problem and the client will go away unhappy . SO remember how important the consultation is and get all the advice over to them at that stage even the bad points to extensions! If bald patches occur again look at the after care the client may be being to rough. Or did you adequately support the extensions, check your technique. Matting/knotting. If client has had Asian hair then this is common. Again back to the consultation tell them what to expect of this hair and how to handle it, I They may well put treatments on this hair to help with the tangles but really this will ruin it and make it worse and then they come back to you if you did not warn them you will have to replace it for free!! All is needed is our quality conditioner. Consultation consultation I cannot stress enough how important this is, go over every aspect with the clients, the do and don’ts get this right and you can relax Never admit liability until you have understood the problem. Do not blame the hair or adhesive if there is a problem it will be your application or the clients aftercare. You should never refer your clients to Images if a dispute is evident then the agreement was signed be yourself and the client not Images. If a problem does arise we will help you but we will not get involved with the client directly. You will get some customers who “just do not like them” However you covered everything with them on the consultation applied the extensions they went away happy and 1-2 weeks later they phone you “ I want them out” Ask them what is the problem and listen to them. If they say I cannot cope then all you say is” well I did stress to you that they are not easy” and advise them that they have not really given them time to settle down/get used to them. Other common problems have already been covered on previous page. Even so this is not grounds for a refund!!! You will remove them for the client but this is chargeable. It’s not your fault they do not like them! A tip for you on the consultation: If a client has never had long hair and wants 14” up wards extensions applying advise them to have shorter ones, as if you apply them I will guarantee that they return in a few days and want you to cut 3-4 inches off!! They always say, “Gosh I did not think it was going to be that long” So have a tape measure handy at the consultation and measure to show them where it will come to bearing in mind it always drops even lower at the back. You will get these experiences but do not be disheartened by them, you work with the public remember!! Trouble shooting No power on gun Fuse gone Faulty wall socket Power failure Replace fuse Try another socket Excessive dripping, bubbles, steams, spitting. Moisture contamination of the adhesive Too heavy handed on the trigger. Glue gun has been stood un used for some time and the stick inside has become contaminated with moisture. This is normal, if excessive turn off and cool for 10 mins Cartridge will not push through First cartridge has passed the trigger Put another one in Trigger stiff Overheated Point to bowl push stick through with palm of hand and pull trigger, once cleared switch off and cool for 10 mins Adhesive flow gone backwards Not allowed to reach temperature before pulling trigger Switch off for 10 mins scrape adhesive away with sharp knife taking care not to cut seals. May need replacing. Nozzle leaking Nozzle come loose Tighten with spanner Adhesive coming out of heater section The section has been pocked with something sharp Needs replacing cannot be repaired. Trigger has broken Trigger been pulled excessively when applicator has not heated up Needs repairing/replacing Trouble shooting customer complaints Itching scalp Not rinsing properly Rash appears Client maybe allergic Always offer to apply 2 extensions at the consultation - chargeable Bald patches appearing Clients being too rough Incorrectly applied – check application Go over aftercare make sure they support the extensions when styling/brushing Remove re-apply if sufficient support there. Matting / tangled hair Incorrect after care Bad consultation Get clients to show you how they wash/care for it and correct Wash and dry the hair in salon removing all tangles first apply the appropriate product generally a leave in conditioner. If Asian hair and a treatment has been used you will not be able to rectify it Excess shedding Shoelace bond- check technique Remove and reapply Blonde Asian hair is common for this due to processing if poss avoid this hair Hair comes away bond in tact Usually associated with blonde Asian hair This cannot be rectified just avoid the product, if client insists for the cheaper hair advise of this problem and recommend only European when dealing with blondes at the consultation stage. Hair loops after a few weeks Generally happens If extreme. …………………… Check your application are you getting too much root lift Remove reapply Spilt bond/ lifted away from hair at the top and bottom/generally looks tatty Shoelace bond Wrong product use Greasy scalp Has client had then in too long without maintenance? Refer to your record cards Check application technique Recommended correct product Washing often will help combat greasy scalp but will experience more shedding than someone with normal as grease and glue do not mix- advise this at the consultation. Resolve by – remove and re-apply the ones affected. Applying to a greasy scalp: wipe the area first with removal solvent allow to dry then apply- thus removing any grease. Record cards As with your hairdressing clients always keep a record of everything, dates, procedures, problems, advice given, price charged, products bought, even good aspects This will help you deal with customers when taking bookings for maintenance you will know what they have had done in the past if anything when and how you charged. You can enter any problems raised what you advised and what they told you. I hope this section has not spoilt your excitement about training for extensions as it is a very satisfying job to see the before and after and how happy clients are when they leave with there new look. You will make a lot of customers very happy and they will love you for it. I have been kissed and hugged many a time when finished a client and I hope you experience the same. Enjoy it and enjoy the profits that come with it!!! Pricing information Depending on the area you are in: a rough guide: 12” £400 to £450. 14” £435 to £480 16’’ £500 to £550 18’’ £550 to £600 20’’ £600 to £700
Blonde hair
will be more expensive at the end of 2004 so adjust this accordingly This is a guide only for European hair; Asian hair can be done cheaper as the hair is less expensive. Please bear in mind thee is many salons using the hair x system so please be considerate when pricing we don’t want a price war on our hands. Especially those who work freelance DON’T UNDERSELL YOURSELF. Last but not least promoting extensions within your salon A poster is included in your kit use it and place in the most prominent position in your salon. Also the leaflets place where clients can see and access them, ideally place one on the chair so they have to pick it up to sit down and they always read it! Always take pictures of your work, before and after, if the client will let you. Take time when taking these photos don’t rush it these will go in your portfolio and you want it to look good. When taking the pictures check to see what is behind the client as this will come up in the photo too. Avoid taking a picture facing the mirror. Line the client up straight and double-check your viewfinder that they are central and you can see your work. Most important when taking the after shots get the client to smile! Get an ad in the local paper advertising your new service. If you have a sally block put some party colours in it and put it where the clients can see, this will create some interest. (We supply sally blocks) If not take some coloured fibre from your stock and make a plait of all the colours and pin it next to a poster advertising this service. The young ones love this service; if you have a few teenagers in for these they will always tell their friends. Depending on the area of your salon you can charge from £2.00 to £4.00 each for these, apply a discount for 10 or 15 applied. When you get your clients in for the full head human extensions and they love it tell them if they can get 2 or 3 of there friends to have it done you will give them discount on there next full head. Get your staff to wear them a great way to promote them. We hope you enjoy your training with us and we wish you every success in your new venture. HAIR X Is a brand name which brands include hair x adhesive and hair x human hair. Full product support comes with this package which includes telephone support when needed, however once a trainee has passed the training they must carry on practising to master the technique, practice, practiceis a must. All products purchased from Images are tried and tested and proved to be reliable. If inferior products are purchased elsewhere and used our support to you is limited if problems occur and you could be removed from our database if Images products are not used.
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